Rebel Goes Dutch

Recently, on the 10 year anniversary of selling my car, I had the honor of being interviewed by Het is Koers on my experience with bike commuting, bike touring, and carfree living in the US. The website doesn’t appear to translate to English in most browsers, so I’ve included the English translation below.

Rebel with a cause
Is it an act of rebellion to live without a car? Perhaps not necessarily in the Low Countries, but certainly in the United States. Where the automobile is still a lot more self-evident than in Europe and where the infrastructure is only limitedly equipped for more active forms of mobility. Mary McGowan denounces this self-evidence. She does this on social media, under the evocative name Rebel Without A Car. Like a modern James Dean – but a rebel with a cause – McGowan questions mobility in her hometown of Greenville, South Carolina and encourages good and safe bicycle routes. A form of healthy rebellion that is needed now more than ever.

By: Niels Steeghs
24 Mar 2025


Are there any new things? And a very Dutch-looking Gazelle women’s bike. McGowan works as a speech therapist at a school and has an arsenal of other bikes in addition to the Gazelle. She goes out as often as possible to bikepack, both at home and abroad. She reports on these trips, including the beautiful aspects and the challenges she encounters. Like her recent trip, a series of dysfunctional bridges and challenging roads. But also the encounters with enthusiastic fellow fighters and the beautiful B-routes through the American hinterland. One of her role models is also a good companion on the bike: “A band I like to listen to while cycling is Blind Pilot. They did their first tour on bicycles in California. Just imagine that!”

It has now been ten years since you finally exchanged your car for a bicycle. What has it brought you and what challenges did you encounter? “Honestly, it was both terrifying and liberating. Everyone warned me that I would definitely need a car, because what do you do in an emergency, for example? But the moment I got home from the dealership, without a car, it felt like 1,000 pounds had been lifted off my shoulders. Besides the rent, it was my biggest financial burden and I had already reduced my usage so much that I was driving mainly to keep the engine running. It turns out that the car needs to be driven regularly to keep the battery charged. Of course, I forgot about that and now the car is just sitting dead in my driveway. It’s a funny reminder of how I felt about my last car 10 years ago!” “One of the biggest challenges has been seeing how car ownership is taken for granted. Some of it is funny, like when I cycled to a drive-through testing site during COVID and had to awkwardly explain why I was there on my two-wheeler. Or frustrating, like when I try to get something from a pharmacy or drive-through restaurant and get turned away because I’m not in a car. So much of our infrastructure here was built without people like me in mind. Millions of Americans have no other option, and they are completely left out of decision-making because policymakers—drivers themselves—comfortably assume that everyone has access to a car.”

“I volunteer a lot with Bike Walk Greenville, a local advocacy organization that advocates for safer, more connected cycling and walking infrastructure. What I’ve discovered through this work is that so many people want to drive less but feel like they don’t have a choice. Younger generations in particular are embracing urban ideas, and it’s exciting to see those ideas become more mainstream.”

“Greenville has certainly made some progress, but we have a long way to go. Over the past few years, we brought in volunteer data analysts to map where infrastructure is needed most, especially for those with the least resources. That was a huge step forward in getting the attention of local leaders and securing funding. Right now, our bike infrastructure is pretty limited, and expanding the trail network will take years to realize. That’s why mapping where people are actually walking and biking is so important. Many drivers don’t even realize the alternatives, the biking potential that exists, or that many trips aren’t actually that much longer by bike when you factor in traffic and parking. Older neighborhoods often have better connections, newer neighborhoods are full of dead-end streets that force everyone onto busy roads. “We’re pushing for policy changes so we don’t keep repeating the same mistakes, but car-centric development is often still the default option.”

What’s the story behind your very Dutch-looking Gazelle bike?
“My Gazelle was given to me by a local entrepreneur who decided to retire and close his e-bike shop a few years ago. After seven years of riding a traditional bike everywhere, switching to an e-bike is a nice upgrade for hauling groceries and commuting. I love the vintage Dutch style, and I wish we saw more bikes like this in the US. Most e-bikes here are designed to look super modern and sporty, but I prefer the classic European bike aesthetic.”

“I fell in love with urban biking when I was studying in Vienna. I bought a used bike in the spring of 2010 and it was truly transformative. I’ve traveled to many places in Europe but haven’t been to the Netherlands yet, partly because I’m afraid I’d never want to leave! I believe in working to make my own community better instead of just moving somewhere that already has great infrastructure. Here I can work to create change so that people who don’t have the privilege of just moving to a better place can benefit too. It’s been encouraging to see that a lot of local conversations have shifted in the 10 years I’ve lived in this city, we’re open to experimenting with new ideas. There are many other people here working to make housing affordable, improve our education system, and reduce pollution – and I feel like access to affordable, healthy transportation is so important to the work others are doing here.”

How do you see the future of active mobility in America, given the current situation? “To be honest, it’s a very dark time for our country. Far too many people still don’t understand the dangerous position we’re in right now. In addition to the usual political stuff being thrown around, safe street projects and policies that we’ve fought for over the last few years are being attacked and politicized like never before. I honestly hope that we can get through the next four years and come out of it with the life, health and well-being of people prioritized, with leadership that really cares about making things better for everyone. I realize that’s a bleak outlook, but I have no problem being honest about where we’re at. I studied political science and history in college, so witnessing current events right now feels really surreal. But I think it’s really important not to normalize what’s happening here, because we’ve apparently learned nothing from a century ago.”

Rebel Goes Dutch

2019 Trip Recap: Canadian Rockies (Jasper to Banff)

As 2019 skids down a steep grade right into 2020, I’m using my winter break to finally get at least the first part of my 2019 Canadian Rockies trip summarized and posted. I like having these posts to refer back to for myself and others who may want to do a similar trip, but between the amount of pictures I take and the level of ADD I have, it’s a struggle to get these posted in a more timely manner.

As I plan for next year, the pattern of “hmm, well maybe next I can try ____”  is becoming quite clear. If you had told me just a few years ago that I would be embarking on solo self contained bike tours spanning thousands of miles, I would have laughed until I had side stitches (which wouldn’t take long, because I was not remotely in shape). I still remember when getting down the street to pick up a couple items at the store on the folding bike I kept in my car trunk was a triumph of logistics and braving the concrete wilderness – and I am here to cheer you on if you’re reading this and have any sort of goal of riding more and/or driving less. I honestly only bother posting my pictures and writing these posts because I am so grateful for others who inspired me along the way, and it is the most amazing thing to me when I hear from other people that they have been inspired by me to get out and do something on their bike. So I am here to tell you that if you have no athletic inclinations/ mechanical abilities/ real sense of direction and are terrified of igniting a camp stove, you can still do all of the things I am writing about, because I kid you not, that was me.

With that said, here goes:

 

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On July 5th of last year, I flew to Canada to meet my parents, who signed us up for the VBT Canadian Rockies Tour to celebrate my 30th birthday earlier this year. Given that this trip is only a week, I have a long bike-it list of places to see out west, and my job with a school district gives me an 8 week summer break, I flew out with my bike instead of using the provided VBT bike so that I could continue from Banff on my own solo self-contained venture afterwards (that will be part II).

The hardest (read: worst) part of bike touring to me is the planning and logistics beforehand. I went back and forth about shipping vs. flying with my bike, and due to timelines, the cost of international shipping, and the risk of my bike getting stuck in customs during the busy season in Edmonton, I ended up paying Delta $150 to fly with my bike (only a few weeks later, Delta changed their policy and no longer charges more than a regular bag for checking a bike. So it goes.) Flying with my bike was still half the cost of shipping it to Canada, plus the savings of not having to pay a shop for a build, and since international weight limit was (I think) 75 lbs, I was able to pad my bike with my tent, helmet, panniers, sleeping bag and other gear and therefore travel with just a carryon.

 

Unlike last summer where I assembled my bike in the airport and rode out of MSP, since my flight got in around midnight and I wasn’t traveling alone, we took a cab to the hotel and I assembled my bike there the next day after exploring Edmonton on foot.

 

 

If you can’t find one at your local bike shop, you can get one of these useful little tools here. It was all I needed to reinstall my handlebars, bottle cages, saddle/seatpost and SPD pedals, and unlike a multitool you can get some pretty good torque (which you’ll need for your pedals).

 

 

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Once I had reassembled my bike, I had a slight panic when I heard a weird clicking sound coming from my rear wheel and realized I needed to find a mechanic.. around 4pm on a Saturday. I hustled over to Red Bike and was relieved to find that I just needed new rear brake pads, which makes sense given the amount of death-grip-braking I did on this bike while riding the Appalachian Gravel Growler a month before… I guess I need to write a post about that trip too. Anyway, the folks at Red Bike were wonderful and if you find yourself in Edmonton, you should definitely check them out.

 

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I didn’t have as much time to explore Edmonton as I would have liked, but there are some great views and some enviable infrastructure including bike/pedestrian bridges and bike trails winding through parks along the river.

 

After the layover day in Edmonton, we loaded up on a VBT van for the transfer ride several hours west to Jasper National Park. It was overcast and misty, but the glimpses of mountains peeking out through the clouds still gave me chills.

 

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Our first afternoon, we had a short 11 mile ride up to a lake to test out our bikes (VBT provides guests with their choice of road bike, hybrid or e-bike for this particular trip) and get a feel for the area. I might have taken a slight detour on this gravel road to test out my freshly installed Rene Herse tubeless tires, but that’s just between me and Strava.

 

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Our first full day involved a trip to Maligne Lake; the official trip option was to get a van shuttle up and ride 33 miles down with a picnic lunch stop on the way, but not wanting to miss a second of riding in this incredible place, I and a few other guests opted to leave early that morning and pedal up instead of hitching a ride.

 

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We were rewarded by sightings of elk (sadly but not surprisingly, no caribou) and THIS BEAR CROSSING THE ROAD – I still have zero chill just thinking about it. It was so exciting and profoundly beautiful that I teared up as I stood there watching it (while my mother had a nervous breakdown behind me).

 

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The views climbing and on the descent were incredible and the car traffic was light. The clouds even parted later in the morning for glimpses of blue sky above soaring mountains.

 

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The rest of the trip did not disappoint. In fact, every day seemed to get more and more beautiful…

 

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I had been watching the weather for weeks leading up to the trip and had worried that the rain would continue into our trip week, but we really lucked out – the worst we got were clouds that only added drama to the mountains peeking out at us at every turn.

 

Despite being surrounded by these stunning peaks, the roads themselves were very reasonable grades, super smooth, and low traffic – at least compared to what I’m used to back in South Carolina. I didn’t really notice being at a higher elevation, but I was also riding relatively casually to better take in the scenery.

 

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For several of the days we got to ride to our next location down the road instead of being shuttled in the van or bus, but due to the length of the trip and the miles spanning between Jasper and Banff, we did have to take a shuttle in the middle of the trip. It makes total sense, but the part of me that likes drawing a line from A to B of where I’ve ridden was definitely disappointed.

 

 

However, you can’t *not* visit Lake Louise…

 

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… or Peyto Lake. The views are just incredible! The traffic and crowds surrounding them, not so much. At the same time, it’s easy to understand why they are so popular, and while solo travel is more my jam, I’ll admit that it was nice to not have to worry about logistics/passes/permits while checking these spots off my bucket list.

 

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The week passed by in a blur of incredible views, good food and steadily improving weather. Before we knew it, we were in Banff!

 

 

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On our last full day together as a group, I rode the trail from Banff to Canmore – despite being next to the highway, it was a pleasant ride with spectacular views of the mountains. We stopped at the Grizzly Paw Brewing Company and enjoyed a local outdoor craft fair before heading back into town for our farewell dinner.

 

… Except I had to sneak off for one extra little loop up to Lake Minnewanka. The miles are easy when the scenery is this level of gorgeous.

 

If you noticed our Jasper the Bear mascot hanging out in a few of these photos, I got the honor of riding around with him on our final day in Banff. Our group had a fun time passing Jasper around during the week, adding to his outfit and getting photos of his adventures. I don’t ride on tour with a handlebar buddy, but having Jasper around made me want to reconsider that.

 

Stay tuned for Part II, because the day after this last picture was taken, I ventured out on my own for a 1300 mile trek southward, and the real adventure began!

 

Legal stuff disclaimer: nothing mentioned in this post is sponsored or promotional, with the exception of the link to that allen wrench tool, which is an Amazon affiliate link. But again, support your local bike shop first if you can!

2019 Trip Recap: Canadian Rockies (Jasper to Banff)